The Stay · The way of life
Village Journal.
Short pieces about the people, places and rituals of Chauddhachuli, written over the years by the people who live and work here. This is what the village is like when nothing in particular is happening — which is most of the time, and is the point.
All stories
17 stories
PlacesThe HaatThe village market that sets up every Wednesday and Sunday, and the lifeline of the locals.
PlacesHoludbari High SchoolThe oldest school in the area, founded in 1885. Nearly 140 years of teaching in this cluster of villages.
PlacesKhejuri Post OfficeThe ruins of what is said to be India's oldest post office, twenty minutes' drive away.
PlacesRasulpur RiverThe nearest river, with two tributaries, the Sunia and the Kalua. The sea is close, and the fishing is remarkable.
RitualsDurga TempleWhere the village gathers for five days each year, through to the immersion of the idol.
RitualsMusic for our GodsThe Vaishnavite tradition of singing through the night, sometimes for days, with distinct styles for different deities.
RitualsVaishnav RitualThe evening prayer as the sun goes down, asking Lord Gopal to come home from playing with the universe and go to sleep.
RitualsVaishnavite Puja OfferingThe performers who sing the god's glory during the offering.
PeopleBenu Kishore NayekA farmer, and a full-time musician who has sung at local ceremonies for forty years.
PeoplePirbabaA local legend who is said to have ridden a horse and had healing powers.
PeopleThe Grand Old LadyGitarani Maity, the oldest woman in the village, who remembered the zamindars in their heyday.
PeopleFootball ChampionsTwo girls from Holudbari High School who became district champions in women’s football.
PeoplePanipuri AuntieA woman running a panipuri stall in a trade that is almost entirely male, and running it well.
PeopleSudip Maiti, The ArtistA renowned artist and teacher who started here and now teaches local children art and craft.
Food & workLocal Puffed Rice MillMuri is the staple after rice here, and a handful of local mills still make it by an indigenous process.
Food & workDJs of ChauddhachuliThe local DJ-box makers, who build high-fidelity rigs for the festival season and hold an annual competition.
Food & workTuriyo Foods: Food & memories of BengalThe artisanal food initiative that became Turiyo’s longest-running thread.
See it for yourself.
Residency guests stay in the village for two nights, with time to walk to the haat or sit by the pond.